Pattern update: The Beeswax Set

My Beeswax Hat, Cowl, and Mitts have been some of my most popular patterns since I first published them nearly a decade ago. My pattern writing has evolved a lot since 2014 when I first published them, and even more since 2018 when I last updated their charts and layout. And because I want them to continue to reflect my best work as a designer, I’ve been working on a big update to polish them up.

The Beeswax Hat, Cowl, and Mitts knit in Pakihi DK from Ruataniwha Dye Studio.

The changes

My main intention was to update the ribbing instructions, which I’ve had the occasional question about over the years. But after making that change and looking more closely, I found more and more tweaks I wanted to make. One of the new changes I’ve made is updating the cables to include purl stitches, where they originally included only knit stitches for the sake of simplicity. I decided the slightly more polished look of the purl cables was worth making the switch. It doesn’t make a huge difference to the appearance of the cables, but I personally find it more satisfying!

Additional changes include a new smaller size for the Beeswax Hat (for kids!), a taller option for the Beeswax Cowl, a larger gauge option for the Beeswax Mitts, stitch counts added throughout to reflect the variable stitch pattern repeat, new schematics, and additional small tweaks to bring the patterns in line with my current style.

I blocked this Beeswax Hat over a balloon to show off the pretty crown decreases. The Beeswax Cowl in the background is the new taller size.

New samples

As part of this process I knit up some new samples to show off the new sizes. As a designer I find knitting my way through a pattern super helpful, because I can refine it as I go and catch any errors. For most of the new samples I used Pakihi DK from Ruataniwha Dye Studio, a woollen-spun blend of NZ polwarth and arapawa wool. The cables are beautifully crisp in this yarn! And for the smaller Beeswax Hat, I used Possmerino DK from Trichromat Yarns, which has a lovely soft halo and luxurious softness.

The new smaller Beeswax Hat, knit in Possmerino DK from Trichromat Yarns.

Finally, I had the updated patterns professionally tech edited to make sure they’re as clear and error-free as possible. I hope you love the refreshed patterns, which are now available on Ravelry and Payhip.

New patterns: Herb Garden Hat & Cowl

I’m continuing my obsession with botanical shapes in knitting with a colourwork hat and cowl duo, featuring lush leaves framed by delicate linework. The Herb Garden Hat and Herb Garden Cowl are named for the sensory delight of a garden overflowing with herbs, humming with bees, and bursting with culinary possibilities. I have a little pot of herbs on my balcony which provides rosemary for roast potatoes, thyme for sauces and pizzas, and flowers for visiting bees. I’m planning to add some basil and mint to my collection this summer!

Inspiration & design journey

Like my Cat’s Eye Cowl, this design started off with me messing around with geometric patterns, shuffling elements around and rounding the shapes until I had something satisfying-looking. I noticed it had a leafy feel to it, and I tried to bring that out further as I kept playing around. Once I was happy with the leaf elements, I added geometric lines to frame them and bring the ribbing into the design. This framing also has the benefit of reducing the need for long colourwork floats while knitting.

While I was working on the hat, I took a couple of attempts (as usual) to get the crown decreases right. I wanted them to look nicely balanced with the ring of colourwork leaves while giving me the fit I wanted - not too slouchy, and not too close-fitting. I used a lifeline while knitting my second sample so I could make any final tweaks to the design without ripping back further than I needed to. It’s definitely possible to rip back without using a lifeline, but colourwork makes it tricky!

In this one I’m doing my best to look like a Dutch painting.

Yarn requirements

I knit each of my samples using 2 skeins of Vintage Purls Superstar, a blend of 70% New Zealand polwarth, 20% tussah silk, and 10% black New Zealand merino at 415yds/380m per 100g skein. I chose the undyed ‘Natural Talent’ shade for the contrast colour for both hat and cowl, and the main colour ‘Zosma’ for the hat and ‘Carina’ for the cowl. The new Vintage Purls Tannahill yarn would also be ideal for these designs, as it’s a woollen-spun merino especially recommended for colourwork.

Special techniques

The Alternate Cable Cast On suggested in the patterns gives a nice tidy edge, but feel free to use your favourite cast on for 1x1 ribbing. The Long Tail Cast On and Tubular Cast On would also look great. Both patterns include a few of my favourite tips for knitting beautiful colourwork, including on colour dominance, swatching, and managing tension.

Sasha wanted to be involved in the photoshoot - who could say no to that face?

Herb Garden Hat features:

• A beanie-style hat featuring an all-over stranded colourwork pattern of foliage and geometric linework

• Three sizes are included, to fit 20 (22, 24)” / 51 (56, 61) head circumference

• Requires 75-94yds / 69-86m (MC) and 99-145yds / 91-133m (CC) in fingering-weight yarn (shown in Vintage Purls Superstar 4ply)

• Choose a wool or wool-blend yarn suitable for colourwork, in colours with sufficient contrast

• Hat dimensions, relaxed after blocking and unstretched: 16 (18, 20)” / 40.5 (46, 51)cm brim circumference, and 8.25 (8.75, 9.25)” / 21 (22.5, 23.5)cm length from cast-on to crown. Sample shown in medium size on my 22” / 56cm head.

Herb Garden Cowl features:

• A cowl knit in the round featuring an all-over stranded colourwork pattern of foliage and geometric linework

• Two height options are included, and the circumference is easily adjustable to your preference

• Requires 136 (256)yds / 124.5 (234)m (MC) and 212 (335)yds / 194 (306.5)m (CC) in fingering-weight yarn (shown in Vintage Purls Superstar 4ply)

• Choose a wool or wool-blend yarn suitable for colourwork, in colours with sufficient contrast

• Cowl dimensions, relaxed after blocking and unstretched: 24” / 61cm circumference, and 9.75 (16.25)” / 25 (41.5)cm height from cast-on to bind-off. Sample shown in taller 16.25” / 41.5cm height.

Find out more about my Herb Garden Hat and Herb Garden Cowl patterns, including Ravelry and Payhip purchase options.

New pattern: Beanstalk Cowl

The Beanstalk Cowl is a one-skein fingering-weight cowl featuring the same columns of lacy leaves and twisted ribbing as my Beanstalk Hat and Beanstalk Shawl patterns. This is my first cowl design with a tapered shape, which is created by working occasional increase rounds to add extra twisted-rib columns between the ‘beanstalks’. The wavy edges are created by the lace pattern, and add to the cowl’s general prettiness.

The pattern includes instructions for one size: 11”/28cm high, 22”/56cm circumference at the top, and 32”/81cm circumference at the bottom.

A few notes on potential modifications:

• Adding a 24-stitch repeat will increase the circumference at both top and bottom (remember to allow for the extra yardage)

• The height can be altered by working a different number of 6-round repeats between the increase rounds

• If you’d prefer a slightly chunkier look and a stiffer fabric, you could substitute 200g of DK or worsted-weight yarn and cast on fewer 24-stitch repeats on larger needles (I would try US 6 / 4mm or larger). You might also wish to work fewer repeats between increase rounds.

The Beanstalk Cowl + two of my Beanstalk Hats

I had a bit of a journey settling on the right yarn for this design! At first I had my heart set on using my gorgeous skein of Farmhaus Fibres Grounded Twist (a BFL/nylon blend) in the Copper Red colourway. Unfortunately, as you can see from the swatch photo below, the stitch pattern just isn't shining like it should, and for a design sample I really need to showcase the stitch pattern. So I switched to the gentle grey colourway Perfect Day on Farmhaus Fibres’ non-superwash base Homestead Merino, and it was indeed perfect.

Unfortunately this yarn is currently unavailable (its creator is on a dyeing hiatus), but hopefully I’ll be able to give you enough detail on its special properties to give you confidence in substituting a different yarn.

First of all, it’s a fingering-weight yarn with two twisted plies, composed of non-superwash fine merino, with 437yds/400m per 100g skein. My Beanstalk Hat and Shawl samples were also knit in non-superwash yarn, which I find helps to highlight the texture of the lace and ribbing in these designs. Colourway choice is also important for this pattern, as I discovered when swatching - the stitch pattern stands out the best in a solid or very-nearly-solid colourway. A number of my preview knitters also made beautiful cowls using subtly-variegated yarn. I think the problem with my Copper Red swatch lies with the tiny golden flashes which are much lighter than the base colour. If you do choose a semi-solid or variegated yarn, go for one that is low-contrast.

Comparing two yarn options - the stitch pattern is much clearer in the near-solid Perfect Day than the Copper Red

I blocked my cowl very simply by soaking it in warm water with a little wool-wash, rinsing and gently squeezing, and spreading it out flat on a blocking mat. I decided not to use pins or wires to avoid flattening the texture too much (and because skipping them makes for a much quicker blocking session). This method also preserves the naturally wavy edges - I decided to embrace them this time, rather than flattening them out as I did when I blocked my Beanstalk Shawl using wires.

Carefully spread out to dry on a blocking mat

Admiring the pretty edges

Beanstalk Cowl features:

• A tapered cowl knit in the round from the top down, with alternating columns of lacy leaves and half-twisted ribbing

• One size is included in the pattern, which uses only a single 100g skein

• Requires 417yds/381.5m of fingering-weight yarn (shown in Farmhaus Fibres Homestead Merino)

• Choose a non-superwash wool yarn in a solid or near-solid shade

• Cowl dimensions, relaxed after blocking: 22”/56cm narrowest circumference, 32”/81cm widest circumference, and 11”/28cm height

• Charts and written instructions are both provided in full.

Find out more about my Beanstalk Cowl pattern, including Ravelry and Payhip purchase options.

New pattern: Cat's Eye Cowl

I’ve been wanting to design some cat-inspired knits for a long time. This year, when my cats have been such wonderful little distractions through lockdowns and uncertainty, has turned out to be the year! The Cat’s Eye Cowl is a tribute to my beautiful kitties Sasha and Katya, who always like to keep a close eye on me in case I might be about to hand out cat-treats or a new cardboard toy. The cowl is a short loop knit in the round, with an all-over stranded colourwork pattern featuring gleaming feline eyes and strong geometric lines.

Katya, age 2

Sasha, age 2 & 1/2

And Mitzi, Mum & Dad’s feline friend

I usually begin my colourwork designs by filling in squares in an Excel spreadsheet, which allows me to quickly copy & paste and go through a lot of variations quickly. This colourwork pattern actually began life as a moon-and-stars design, and as I played with it over time I decided the moons should be cat-like eyes instead. Not much remains of the original idea in the present pattern, except for the glints of starlight in the centre of each eye and the shading towards their outer edges. As is the case with many of my knitting ideas, simplifying the design over a number of iterations made it much stronger and also much more ‘me’.

The yarn I used for my sample is John Arbon’s Yarnadelic (100% Falklands Corriedale Wool; 364yds/333m per 100g skein), one skein in Sunflowers in my Garden for the main/background colour and one skein in Indigo Dust for the contrast colour. Yarnadelic is a multi-plied yarn with a bit of a woolly halo which helps the colourwork stitches ‘stick’ together, and the colours are beautifully rich and complex.

Two height options are included in the Cat’s Eye Cowl pattern, 9”/23cm and 11.5”/29cm, and it’s easy to alter the 24”/61cm circumference by working additional repeats if you prefer a longer or double-wrapped cowl.

Skills needed to work this pattern include the Long Tail Cast On (or your favourite cast on that will work with 3x1 ribbing), working stranded colourwork in the round, and following a colourwork chart. Tips on colour dominance, tension, and swatching colourwork in the round are included in the pattern. I would also recommend going down a needle size when you work the ribbing, which I wish I had done! You can see in the photos below the bottom ribbing has flipped up. It laid flat just fine after blocking, as you can see in the non-modelled photos - up until I put it on and moved around. I think it actually looks ok, but that wasn’t supposed to happen…

This blog post from Felicia of The Craft Sessions has a few more tricks to help avoid flippage: How To Stop Your Knitted Hem From Flipping Up.

Cat’s Eye Cowl features:

• a short cowl knit in the round, with an all-over stranded colourwork pattern of cat’s eyes and geometric elements

• two height options are included in the pattern, and the circumference is easily adjustable to your preference

• requires MC (Main Colour): 127 (169)yds/117 (155)m + CC (Contrast Colour): 185 (228)yds/170 (209)m in sport or heavy fingering-weight yarn (shown in John Arbon Yarnadelic)

• choose a wool or wool-blend yarn suitable for colourwork, in colours with sufficient contrast

• cowl dimensions, relaxed after blocking: 24”/61cm circumference, and 9 (11.5)”/23 (29)cm high from cast-on to bind-off. Sample shown in 11.5”/29cm height.

Find out more about my Cat’s Eye Cowl pattern, including Ravelry and Payhip purchase options.

New pattern: Heartwood Cowl

Getting this pattern from the idea stage to its final form has followed a similar path to my Beanstalk Hat from earlier this year - a long and meandering path! At first I intended to design a DK-weight hat with columns of heart-shaped cables, but I couldn’t find a solution I liked for the crown decreases that resulted in a well-balanced-looking hat. Eventually, after a lot of ripping-out of hat crowns, I realised a cowl would work beautifully with the heart-cables flowing in and out of 2x2 ribbing. One more swatch in fingering-weight yarn, and I had my design all planned out.

(Note: Just recently I came up with another idea for the disagreeable hat decreases, so a matching hat just might be in the cards!)

I started knitting the sample for the Heartwood Cowl back in early August, at the beginning of the second Melbourne lockdown. It’s an absorbing knit which requires concentration, and between the warm comforting colour and the slightly fiddly cables it’s been the perfect lockdown project for me. The cowl’s pattern of intertwined cabled hearts is a slightly on-the-nose design element in honour of my loved ones back home in New Zealand, who I hope to be able to see next year if all goes well in the world.

The delicious brown yarn I used to knit the sample is a fingering-weight merino from Happy Hank Co - Classy Fingering (100% superwash merino; 437yds/400m per 100g skein) in the Cinnamon colourway. The combination of a fingering-weight yarn and densely-cabled texture produces a squishy and substantial fabric, with a little more drape than you might get from a heavier yarn. When choosing the yarn for this pattern, look for a smooth, multi-plied, worsted-spun yarn for a similar effect. I recommend choosing a solid or near-solid colourway to show off the texture.

I’ve included three height options in the pattern, the shortest of which uses only a single skein. The circumference is also easy to adjust to your preference by adding or subtracting repeats. Some of my wonderful test knitters even adapted the pattern to different yarn weights for their projects, including DK, worsted, and aran weights. If you’d like to use a heavier yarn, I’d recommend planning for fewer repeats - for example you might cast on eight 24-stitch repeats instead of the original ten.

Skills needed to work this pattern include the Long Tail Cast On (or your favourite for 2x2 rib), working in the round, and working 2-over-2 cables. There are also a few six-stitch cables in the mix, confined to three rounds per pattern repeat. Both charts and full written instructions are included.

Heartwood Cowl features:

• a cowl knit in the round from the bottom up, with an all-over texture of cabled hearts and ribbing

• three height options are included in the pattern, the shortest of which uses only a single skein, and the circumference is easily adjustable to your preference

• requires 351 (496, 641)yds/321 (453, 586)m of fingering-weight yarn (shown in Happy Hank Co Classy Fingering)

• choose a smooth, multi-plied, worsted-spun yarn in a solid or near-solid colour

• cowl dimensions, relaxed after blocking: 24”/61cm in circumference, and 7.5 (10.75, 14)”/19 (27.5, 36)cm high from cast-on to bind-off. Sample shown in 14”/36cm height

• charts and written instructions are both provided in full.

Find out more about my Heartwood Cowl pattern, including Ravelry and Payhip purchase options.